Summary

20130727 pick up fm Horn
 
In Summer 2013, a team of climbers from the Oxford University Mountaineering Club partnered with two experienced sailors to sail to West Greenland and seek out new routes on Arctic Big Walls.

Tom Codrington, Peter Hill, Angela Lilienthal and Clive Woodman sailed for four weeks over 2500 nautical miles from Canada to Greenland, meeting Ian Faulkner and Jacob Cook there, to explore the fjords around Uummannaq.

They climbed 5 major new routes, including two on the huge Horn of Upernivik which had repelled at least three previous attempts and three first ascents of previously unknown cliffs rising more than 800m out of the sea.

The 24-hour daylight made for some stunningly long days – none of the major routes was climbed in less than 20 hours and one of them took a full 42 hours of continuous climbing.

Between them, the team swam among the icebergs, caught falling rocks on various body parts, stood where no one has stood before, threw up into balaclavas and washed them clean again, slept on tiny ledges hundreds of metres above the sea, ate cake from the bilges, hitch-hiked with seal-hunters, took big falls onto terrible gear, climbed past their natural limits, got swamped by waves in mid-Atlantic and lived to tell the tale.

See the expedition diary for the full story.

2 thoughts on “Summary

  1. I climbed on Upernivik Island 1967-69 with St Andrews University expeditions. In the centre of island are the twin Horns of Upernivik ( 6250 ft) whose West Horn grade D was climbed up Northeast ridge by 7 man party on 2 August 1967. The East Horn grade TD inf up south face by North and Tauber on 13 August 1967, and again by another route grade D sup up south pillar by Shade and Tauber on19 July 1969. Account 1967 in Alpine Journal 1968 with photo of the Horns.
    Pity your trip used same name. What you climbed admirably was a high spikey coastal headland on Stentor whose north ridge grade AD was climbed by our 4 man party on 23 July 1067
    Perhaps some renaming is desirable;say High Horns of Upernivik for our mountaineery hill,and Low Horns of Upernivik for your big wall. But does it matter?

    Phil Gribbon

    • Hi Phil,

      Good to hear from you! Yes, we came across the St Andrews reports after returning – a great read by the way. Unfortunately we were following a different naming convention based on a report (and one of the unfinished lines) from an expedition from Aberystwyth – http://www.aber.ac.uk/greenland/images/uummannaq/Uummannaq_expedition.pdf. Impressed with the effort on the North ridge – from the southern side that we came out on, it looked a bit crux-y!

      All our reports have now been filed, which is a shame – it would’ve been worth clearing up the confusion.

      All the best,

      Tom

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